我是贝尔·格里尔斯 I'm Bear Grylls.
我将向您展示 如何从地球上 I'm gonna show you what it takes to get out alive
最危险的地带 逃出生天 from some of the most dangerous places on earth.
短短一周时间内我将身涉险境 I've got to make it through
面临生死考验 a week of challenges...
周遭炼狱 没有生存技巧 你命在旦夕 in the sort of places you wouldn't last a day
而我要设法突出重围 without the right survival skills.
现在我身处阿拉斯加 Now I'm in the Alaska,
穿梭于险恶的冰川中 tackling treacherous glaciers.
如果它砸下来 If that goes on us,
大概是一辆车的重量 it's basically the weight of a car.
挣扎着渡过汹涌的山涧 Fighting my way across wild water pools.
制造我的竹筏 这水真冷 Squeeze my spuds, this is cold.
和世界上最大的生物 And taking to the high seas
一起畅游公海 with some of the largest creatures on the planet.
它正快速驶来 Now, that's coming fast.
阿拉斯加是美国最大的州 Alaska is the largest states in the U.S.
方圆150多万平方英里[3.9万平方公里] Over half and a million square miles wildness.
它比其他州都更偏远 人口更稀少 It's more remote and less-populated than anywhere in the states.
对于我这样的冒险家而言 For adventurers like me,
这里是真正的"最后的荒野" it's truly the "last frontier".
阿拉斯加空军正把我 I'm being dropped deep into the wilderness
带入这片荒蛮之地 by the Alaska air national guard.
这帮人是美国最繁忙的 And these guys are part of one of the busiest
搜救小组之一 search-and-rescue operations in the U.S.
仅去年 他们就救出68人 Last year alone, they flew 68 victims,
挽救了五十多条生命 and saved over 50 lives.
这里有三万平方英里[约7.8万平方公里]的永久冰层 With 30,000 square miles of permanent ice,
冬天积雪厚达40英尺[约12米] winter snows of up to 40 foot,
作为世界上最大的 and one of the largest populations of
黑熊和灰熊栖息地之一 black and grizzly bears in the world,
阿拉斯加是终极的荒野求生之地 Alaska is the ultimate survival challenge.
你绝对不想在这里迷路 You don't want to get lost out here,
但万一你迷路了 but if you do,
这些家伙会把你救出来 these are the guys who will be looking to get you out.
但今次出航的目的不是救援 But today's flight is no rescue mission.
而是要把我撂在楚加奇山脉中 Its purpose is to deploy me into harsh glacier terrain
严酷的冰川高地上 high up in the Chugach mountains.
我计划顺着绳索滑下 作为战斗直升机 I plan to rappel. As a combat chopper,
这架铺鹰式战斗机是理想的速降平台 this pave hawk is the ideal platform for a rapid insertion.
我从80英尺[约24米]高空径直下落 I'm 80 foot up, and the only way is down.
我成功着陆 I'm safely on the deck,
而直升机便离去了 and the helicopter is out of here.
我们正身处山巅之上 看啊 We're quite high up in the mountains, look.
这才是阿拉斯加的山景 And that is a proper Alaskan mountain view.
来到这里的第一感觉就是太冷了 God, first thing you notice is just how cold it is up here.
我们出发的基地海拔和海平面差不多 You know, we left the base at sea level.
但这里海拔有四五千英尺[1200至1500米] But up here, we're about four or five thousand feet.
简直就是天差地别 It's a different ball game.
每降低一千英尺[300米] 温度上升五度[2.8摄氏度] Every 1,000 foot you drop, temperatures rise about five degrees.
所以海平面比这里高25度[约14摄氏度] So it could be 25 degrees warmer at sea level.
更好的是 Even better,
大多数阿拉斯加人住在海岸附近 most Alaskans live near the coast,
如果你被困在这里 so if you get stuck out here,
最好的出路就是向海边进发 your best plan is to head for the sea.
但在这样的不毛之地 But in this harsh place,
到达海边可不是件容易之事 getting there is never gonna be easy.
我最好的下山之路 My best route off this mountain
就是向下面广阔的冰川前进 is to head for the vast glacier below,
但这意味着要通过危险的碎石坡路 but that means crossing a dangerous scree slope.
挂霜的岩石坚硬而尖锐 The frost-shattered rock is hard, sharp,
而且容易松动 and treacherous underfoot.
走在冰川上 Getting onto the glacier
可不像逛公园 will be no walk in the park.
真不喜欢这样的冰川地貌 Don't like the look of this stuff at all.
满眼尽是残破的浮冰 There you see it's just all free-floating, broken ice.
就像众多的小型冰山 Kind of like lots of mini, little icebergs here.
但它们非常不稳定 But they are gonna be super unstable.
宽度大概有一百米 看那边是主冰层 It's only about 100 meters, look, across the main glacier.
踩在上面要很轻 Might have to be a case of being a bit light-footed on it.
上吧 一展脚功的时刻到了 Okay, here we go, twinkle toes.
冰比水密度小 故能浮于水面 Because it's less dense than water, ice floats.
这些小冰块应该能承受我的体重 These small bergs should support my weight.
但谁也不知道它们的承重能力如何 But there's no way of telling how stable they're gonna be.
好险 好了 我来拉你 Just! Okay, give me your hand this last bit.
一 二 三 很好 再来 One, two, three. Good. good. And again. Nice.
有时你就要冒险一搏 Sometimes you just got to commit to these things.
好了 过来一点 Okay, next little bit.
你会看到这些冰块有多薄 You see how undercut all this stuff is.
你不知道接下来要踩的冰块 You don't know whether what you're standing on
是会让你掉到水里 is just gonna drop you straight in the drink,
还是足够坚固 or it's gonna be solid.
没人想掉到冰冷的水中 You do not want to end up freezing cold
而被冻得半死 in this water up here.
这些水晚上会再度结冰 This water will refreeze at night,
在白天也是刚刚达到融化的温度 and by day, it will be only just above zero.
刚才简直跟穿越雷区一样惊险 It's like I've crossed a minefield
而现在我到了坚固的冰面上 and now I'm onto solid ice.
阿拉斯加拥有世界半数以上的冰川 Alaska's home to more than half the world's glaciers,
超过十万座 over 100,000 of them.
初夏时节 它们会融化并移动 In early summer, when they're melting and moving,
那时它们最危险 then they're at their most dangerous.
生物无处可依附 It's no place to hang around.
事情变得非常棘手 It's getting quite tricky, this bit.
我现在没有 Here without
可用的冰爪或者冰镐 proper crampons or ice axes.
冰川边缘的冰层移动缓慢 When moving ice slower at the edge of glaciers,
冰会断裂形成裂隙 it tears and ruptures, forming crevasses
下面是陡峭山坡和不见底的深沟 with steep sides and deadly deep hollows.
掉到里面就出不来了 Fall in here, and you're not coming out.
天哪 Oh, man,
这块冰不够坚固 this ice is just treacherous.
这边安全 从这里通过 Let's get safe here and assess what we're gonna do.
看 这个裂隙 See, this crevasse here
越来越窄 最终形成合拢在那一点 narrows as it goes down into a choke point.
我想如果我能用绳索下到那儿 I reckon if I can rappel down to that
然后沿裂隙行走 and then just edge my way along.
可看到这裂隙一直延伸到那里 There, you see where it leads,
它围绕着底部 呈漏斗形 all the way around the bottom to that, like, funnel.
我要锚定绳索 I need to anchor my rope,
方法就是用冰柱桩 and the answer is an ice bollard.
但我需要动作快点 But I need to work fast.
太阳高照 这里的冰都在融化 The sun is high, and all the ice around here is melting.
在夏天 你看到的这种表层的冰 In summertime, a lot of all this surface ice you see is
十分松散易碎 really loose and crumbly.
基本上一直在融化 It's basically just melting.
你需要扒开它们 找到更坚硬的冰 You need to get through that to more solid stuff,
尤其当你的生命都寄托在它上面时 especially if your life is depending on it.
我一直带着的垂降绳 I've hung on to my rappelling rope
就是为了这种时刻 for just this kind of situation.
最好这样卷 Good thing about doing it like this is
这样扔出去的绳索好收回 that it means the rope is retrievable.
冰柱看起来很坚固 但你总会不禁怀疑 The bollard looks solid, but you always have that doubt
这冰柱能承受得住吗 will the ice hold?
其实我现在更担心的是 Actually, what worries me more at the moment is
这块大冰坨 this big block here.
如果它砸下来 And if that goes on us,
大概是一辆车的重量 it's basically the weight of a car.
我们需要尽快通过这里 We need to get moving through here
不能停下脚步 and not really stop.
突兀的大动作可能会使绳索脱离冰柱 Sharp, hurried movements could dislodge the bollard.
现在看起来还能挺得住 Seems to be holding at the moment.
但它承受我的体重时间越长 But the longer it's forced to take my weight,
崩塌的可能性就越高 the greater the chance it will collapse.
看到我踩的这些石头了吗 You see these blocks I'm standing on.
它们差不多形成了一条 They're acting as, like, a little...
通道 walkway.
如果没有它们 So if these go,
我们就会被卡在这里面 we're just gonna get jammed down this thing.
若不幸陷身于此 If you get trapped down here,
生还的机会几乎为零 your chances of getting out are almost zero.
咱们沿着这里继续让下走 Okay, let's keep moving down this.
积雪融水流动形成的通道如同迷宫 The movement of meltwater has formed a labyrinth of tunnels.
这可能是我的脱身之路 These could be my way out.
这里可不适合有幽闭恐惧症的人 Not a good place to be if you're a little bit claustrophobic.
这其实只是 Now, all of this really
一座在冰缝间的雪桥 is just a snow bridge over a crevasse that's filled in.
但应该足够坚固了 It should be strong enough.
攀登者们被冰封的尸体 The frozen bodies of climbers have been disgorged
在这样的冰缝中埋藏了数十年后 from glaciers decades after
才最终显露出来被人发现 they were caught in ice vises like this.
所以我正全力寻找最快的出路 So I'm looking for the quickest route out of here.
这里有阳光了 We're getting to daylight here.
看能不能用拳头把这击穿 See if we can punch through some of this.
这冰雪地牢之外的世界 The world beyond my glacier dungeon
看似近在咫尺 is tantalizingly close,
但却隔着一堵冰墙 but there's an ice wall to get through.
这墙太厚了无法击穿 只好用脚了 It's too thick to punch, so I'm gonna use my feet.
这冰洞大小刚刚够 The ice has given a way just enough,
我要挤一挤才能出去 but this is gonna be a really tight squeeze.
我出来了 But I'm through,
现在我可以看到走出冰川的道路了 and now I can see my route off the glacier.
好了 咱们走到冰川尽头了 All right. We've got to the end of the glacier.
下面那片遥远而翠绿的阿拉斯加森林 And the green of the Alaskan forest down in the distance..
才是我想去的地方 That's where I want to be heading.
我迫不及待的要摆脱这冰雪纠缠 And I can't wait to get off the ice.
我身在阿拉斯加 I'm in Alaska,
在美国最北部的森林中涉水穿梭 wading through the most northern forests in the U.S.
在这片五千平方英里[1.3万平方公里]的副极地森林中 5,000 square miles of subpolar rainforest,
这片狭长地带连通了 the narrow strip between
我刚刚走过的冰山区 the icy alpine zone I've just left behind
和我此行的目的地 海洋 and the ocean -- that's where I'm heading.
这是一片广袤的荒野 It's a large area of wilderness,
但我似乎并非孤身一人 but it seems I'm not alone.
熊粪 Bear poo.
阿拉斯加森林中常有黑熊出没 And these Alaskan forests are just teeming with black bears.
这些家伙可能有七英尺高[2.1米] These guys can grow up to 7 foot tall,
九百磅重[408公斤] 900 pounds.
虽然不像灰熊那么庞大 Even though that's smaller than grizzlies,
但多数时候 它们更为神出鬼没 in many ways, they're less predictable,
这也使它们更具危险性 which makes them also more dangerous.
黑熊还以善于追踪人类而闻名 Black bears have also been known to track humans,
所以如果遇到这样过不去的湍流 so if you get a river like this and you can't get across,
来回穿梭可以破坏你的气味留下的轨迹 crisscrossing's gonna help to break your scent trail.
好 咱们下去吧 Okay, let's get down there.
更多的美国人死于黑熊 而非灰熊 Black bears kill more people in the U.S. than grizzlies.
所以我要确保自己不要成为瓮中之鳖 So I want to make sure I'm not easy prey.
而这些倒下的树木就是关键 And these fallen trees are key.
利用这个渡过河去 Use this one to get across.
能看出来 我们肯定到了更下游的地方 You can see we're definitely getting further downstream.
下面的水流相当湍急 看吧 There's a huge amount more water going down this. Look.
好 我们小心点走上去 Okay, let's edge out onto this.
我要先试一下这座生死攸关的临时木桥 I want to test my makeshift bridge before committing.
看起来挺牢靠的 The lock seem solid.
但实际上差点玩完 But then disaster.
天呐 我最讨厌这种情况了 God, I hate it when that happens.
刚才真是太险了 That was very, very close.
你认为坚固的东西 You know, you think something's solid,
却如此不可靠 and then it's just rotten.
在户外 一切都不能凭想当然 You can't take anything for granted out here.
要是掉下去 落到这水流中 Go into that, with that much water coming down,
麻烦可就大了 you're in a lot of trouble.
咱们得另谋出路了 We need to find a different way across this.
通过不停地穿梭于河两岸 By continually crossing the river,
我的气味变得很难追踪 I'll break my scent trail.
在下游 我找到了一个很好的渡河处 Just downstream, there's a perfect opportunity.
我估计可以用这个来渡河 I guess I can use this one to get across.
但问题是这个有点细 The thing is it is quite a thin one
而且在潮湿气候下非常滑 and very slippy in this wet.
其实我们可以让这事变得更简单些 Actually, we'll make this much simpler here.
面对生死存亡 即兴发挥往往是求生关键 Improvisation is key in any survival situation.
我意识到可以用我的登山包作为安全带 I reckon I can make my rucksack into a harness
用这颗很滑的树木作为索道 and use the superslippery tree as a form of zip line.
好了 试试吧 Okay, let's give this a go.
成功了 我过来了 Well, that worked! Come across.
现在要让剧组人员过来了 Now to get the crew across.
好 就这样 That's it. I got it.
以前在特种部队做计划的时候 When we used to plan things in the special forces,
大家经常说到 people often used to talk about
"亲吻"这个词 意思是要简单干练 the letters "Kiss," stood for keep us simple stupid
刚刚那办法就很简单 但非常有效 and that was simple, but it worked perfectly.
好了 继续前进吧 Okay, let's get going.
在茂密丛林中 一刻都不能放松警惕 In thick woodland, you must never drop your guard.
这正是黑熊活跃的季节 Black bears are active at this time of year,
以因融雪而显露出来的翠绿嫩枝为食 feeding on green forest shoots exposed by the snowmelt.
但它们是信奉机会主义的猎手 But they're opportunistic hunters
一刻不停的寻觅着更美味的食物 and always on the lookout for tastier fare.
所以我要继续在两岸穿梭着向下游行进 So I'm gonna keep crossing this river as I head downstream.
我要利用这堆倒下的树木渡过去 Gonna use one of these deadfalls just to get across it.
这庞大的倒木堆是被冬日的积雪 These large deadfall logs have been brought down by winter snows
和融雪季的洪水弄倒的 and melt-season floodwaters.
这里水流冲击力很强 We got a lot of pressure of water down there.
手一定要抓稳了 Make sure you keep a hand to yourself.
这里河床狭窄 水流强劲 In this narrow channel, the current is very strong.
脚下滑石遍布 With greasy rock underfoot,
一不留神就可能 it would be easy to lose
失足被冲到下游 your footing and be swept off downstream.
以这枯木做为攀绳 But by using this deadfall as a climbing rope,
我成功的过去了 I make it across.
现在要开始赶路了 Now to cover some ground.
我本来希望这条河中 Kind of half hoping this river would be
能有很多要溯洄产卵的鲑鱼 full of salmon heading upstream to spawn.
因为它们一游动起来 Cause when they're running,
这条河中可就美食多多了 this whole river would just be teeming.
他们在激流中急速游窜 They're racing up through the whitewater.
熊一把抓住它们 The bears just pluck them up.
但是今天不凑巧 But not today,
我得另想一个办法 which means I need another way of finding
来找些吃的 something to eat.
附近应该会有其他可以吃的东西 And there might be other food sources nearby.
这里的地形变得很平坦 The terrain is flattening out here,
这就意味着我快接近河岸了 which means I'm nearing the coast.
在这里 冰川融水顺着河流至此处 Well, this is the point where all that glacial water
并冲击河岸 runs down the river and then hits the coast.
这是个好消息 This is good news.
看 这里有潮汐 And, look, you see it's tidal here.
看对岸 你能看到 Look across it, you can see
高水位线那里有水草 the actual seaweed on the high-tide mark over there.
我想做的是顺着河岸线走 What I want to do is now follow this coastline
去看看我能找到些什么 走吧 and see where I get to. Come on, then.
阿拉斯加有很长的海岸线 Alaska has more shoreline
比美国其他州海岸线的总和还长 than all the other US states combined,
大约有4万英里[6.4万千米] around 40,000 miles of it,
所以我得走很长时间 so this could be a long walk.
但是也有更多机会找到一些海味 But there should be plenty of opportunities to find some seafood.
这儿有很多帽贝 There are loads of these limpets here.
看到没 See these guys?
小帽贝吸附在岩石上 Little shells stuck to the rock.
完全可以放心地生吃 You can actually eat these raw.
你要做的就是找块石头把它们敲下来 All you've got to do is knock them off.
它们在退潮的时候吸附在岩石上 And what they do, they stick to the rock at low tide,
然后在涨潮的时候 and when the tide's in,
它们趁势移动馋食各种藻类 they move around and they graze off all the algae.
帽贝就利用自己强壮的足部 Limpets clamp down onto the rock
吸附在岩石上 using a muscular foot,
足部也是腹足动物主要可食用的部分 which is the main edible part of this gastropod.
可以吃的就这么一点 You're left with just that.
生吃起来味道还不错的 And that's fine to eat raw,
吃起来像是 It tastes like
又咸又有嚼劲的橡胶 Very salty, chewy rubber.
这是种可口的小零食 也算小有帮助 It's a good snack, and every little helps,
但是我发现前面有东西 but I head for something
可以帮我抓住更大的猎物 that could help me catch much bigger game.
这儿有个渔网 There's a fishing net.
在阿拉斯加这没什么大惊小怪的 No surprise in Alaska, though.
这里的渔业规模是全世界一流的 One of the biggest fishing communities in the world.
暴风雨会把这些东西撕破 They got this sort of thing blowing up with storm surges.
看看这个渔网 还是尼龙的 By the look of it-- yes, it's nylon, as well.
太好了 这就意味着它不会腐烂 Gonna be good. it means it doesn't perish.
还很牢固 It's gonna be strong,
完全值得拿走 definitely worth taking.
尼龙的渔网在咸水中也不会被降解 Nylon fishing nets don't degrade in saltwater.
因此对环境有害 It makes them an environmental hazard.
但对我来说 这种耐久性就是好事 But for me, that durability is an advantage.
发现一个好东西 It's a good find, that.
但是现在不是捕鱼的时候 But now is not the time for fishing.
天快黑了 熊要来海边寻找吃的了 Towards the end of the day, bears come to the shoreline to feed.
我们继续前进 Okay, let's keep moving.
挨饿总比成熊的零食来得好 Better to go hungry than end up as a bear snack.
我往地势更高一点的地方前进 I'm heading for higher ground
在天黑以前要找一个扎营的地方 and a place to make camp before it gets too late.
白昼时间长达22个小时是个挑战 One of the challenges of having 22 hours of daylight everyday
这会让你的生物钟紊乱 is just your body clock gets completely thrown off.
不知何时该停下来小息一下 It's hard to know when to stop and take a break.
生存的黄金法则之一 One of the golden rules of survival
就是要适当休息以便恢复体力 is you've got to give yourself time to rest and to recover.
最后这就成为一种戒律 And really then it just becomes a discipline
强制让自己休息 to make yourself stop.
是该休息一下了 It's time for me to take a break.
这儿看来挺适合休息 And this looks like a good place to rest up.
这儿还不错 Actually, this might work.
优先需要考虑的就是 You know, my number-one priority
防范来自熊的攻击 is protection from bears.
上面有这种突出的岩石 And when you get a good overhanging face like this,
还长着几棵树 a few trees leaning against it,
还有渔网 and you've also got a fishing net,
我可以把自己吊起来睡觉 I can make myself some way of sleeping off the ground.
我还带着绳子 I've also still got my rope,
这可是我计划中必不可少的东西 which will play a crucial part in my plan.
这里 看见了吗 There, you see this?
大约相当于一个男人的体重 And that is probably about the weight of one man.
把绳子缠住它 If we get this rope around it,
把它绕到那边的树上 put it then up over one of those trees
然后垂下来 就可以起到秤锤的作用 and down over there, it could act as a counterweight
从而把我吊起来睡觉 to lift me off the ground to sleep.
在树上睡觉并不是一个好的选择 Standard tree platform is not a good option here,
黑熊可是攀爬的高手 black bears are excellent climbers.
通过这种设计 黑熊就没有办法爬上来 By using this design, there'll be no way for them to climb up.
一条绳子吊起渔网做吊床 One rope to suspend my fishnet hammock
再用一条做岩石秤锤的导引索 and a trigger line to my rock counterweight.
这边弄好了 Okay, that's all primed at this end,
接着做的就是 and then all I got to do is
把这团渔网做成吊床 make a hammock out of all of this fishing net.
像这种渔网可用来捕捉上吨的鱼 Nets like this are used to catch tons of fish,
所以我的体重对它来说简直就是微不足道 so this should easily take my weight.
我这么坐上去 I seal myself in here.
把这些从两腿中间拉出来 I'm actually gonna pull this bit up through my legs as well
这样 遇到紧要关头我才不会掉出去 so I can't fall out of this at a critical moment.
好 关键时刻到了 Right. Moment of truth.
1 2 3 One, two, three.
我已经悬空了 Well, I'm off the ground,
但是石块卡在缝里了 but the rock's got caught on that ledge.
让我看看能不能把它弄出来 给力啊 Let me see if I can dislodge it again. Come on.
给力啊 Come on, you...
弄出来了 There we go.
酷 Cool.
知道吗 What do you know?
我现在悬空了 Well, I'm off the ground
脱离熊的威胁了 and safe from the bears.
现在看看我能不能睡着 Now to see if I can get some sleep.
阿拉斯加晚上有光 Just 'cause it's light
但这不是说就很暖和 at nighttime in Alaska does not mean it's warm.
事实上现在快冷死我了 It's actually freezing cold at the moment.
这么冷的原因还有一个 And it's also cold
就是我在渔网里面不能动弹 just 'cause I can't move in this net.
我晚上睡觉通常会扭来扭去的 I'm normally quite a wriggler in the nighttime,
但是现在完全不能动 but there's no wriggling going on at the moment.
就像一块挂在肉店的肉一样 Feel like a bit of meat hung up at the butcher shop.
这是一个阴沉的早晨 It's a gray morning on the Alaskan coast,
阿拉斯加一年超过200天都在下雨 where it can rain for ove 200 days a year.
我饥寒交迫 我要找点吃的充饥 I'm wet, cold, and I'm trying to find some food.
这种地方挖蛤蜊最好不过 Good place just to try and dig for clams.
它们就喜欢这样的泥巴和粘糊糊的东西 Just the sort of mud and gunk they love
它们会住在里面 and they'll live in.
蛤蜊是种海洋软体动物 Clams are marine mollusks,
与牡蛎属于同一贝类家族 shellfish from the same family as oysters.
用你的手指耙泥巴 Just rake your fingers through all the mud.
很容易就能感觉到它 You'll then quite often just feel it.
这就是一个 That's one.
多找一些 Get a few more of those,
就能饱餐一顿了 我们需要把它弄熟 and that'll be good to eat. You need to cook these.
他它们是滤食动物 They're filter feeders.
它们从水中滤出食物 Filter the food through the water,
所以你抓到的是一个毒素集合 so you get a buildup of toxins,
显然你不会想生吞它们 which means you don't want to eat them raw.
但把它们煮熟 就没事了 But cook them up, and they're fine.
蛤蜊是非常好的补铁食物 Clams are an excellent source of iron
还富含能量补充元素 维他命B12 and the energy-boosting vitamin B12.
继续挖 多挖一些 然后再煮它们 Keep doing this, get a few more of them, and then go cook them up.
好了 离开这儿吧 Okay. Get out of here.
天气突然变得恶劣起来 The weather has taken a turn for the worse.
现在天气很冷 Weather's sort of coldness,
有点下雨 还在刮风 sort of wet and windy.
我想收集点浮木 尽快生火做饭 I want to collect some driftwood, make a fire, and get cooking quickly.
但我需要个能避雨的地方 But I'm gonna need some shelter.
这里有个小洞穴 There's a bit of a cave in here.
可以稍微躲一下这鬼天气 Gonna get out of the weather a bit.
先把他们稍微卷起来 Just tucking them up a little bit.
是时候生火了 Time to get this fire going.
利用我的点火棒 I'm using my fire steel
还有一些干燥的引火柴来点燃潮湿的浮木 and some dry kindling to get this damp driftwood lit.
在这样的环境下 很容易会悲观失望 In these conditions, it's easy to get despondent,
而火总能令人精神振奋起来 but a fire always lifts the spirits,
尤其是已经有了食物保障 especially when there's a promise of food.
它们受热后 壳就会张开 As they get hot, these should open up.
只要它们张开了 就表示是可以吃的 As long as they're open, they're good to eat.
如果壳一直闭着 说明是死的 They stay close which means they're dead,
你最好把那种扔了 you really just want to chuck those.
不过手稍稍暖和过来了 But it's very nice to
还是很不错的 just warm my hands a bit again.
当煮着的蛤蜊死了 When the cooked clam dies,
它的肌肉放松 壳就会张开 its muscles relax, and the shell opens up.
这些已经全熟了 These are pretty well done.
试着把硬壳剥掉 Try and take the actual shell off.
剩下的就是这个 You're left with just that.
最起码 它是温的 Above all, it's warming.
尝起来还真不错呢 是吧 They're actually good, yeah.
虽然不是顿大餐 但我暖和多了 Not a huge meal, but I'm feeling warmer
我准备继续前进 and ready to move on,
刻不容缓 and not a minute too soon.
潮水涨得非常快 The tide's coming in quite fast, actually.
你知道不 Yeah, do you know what?
潮水很快就会涨上来 我们得快走了 It's coming in quite fast we need to get going.
我们快走吧 尽快找条出路 Let's get moving, try and work our way around.
潮水涨得很快 The tides here move fast,
而涨到30英尺时[9米] and with a range of up to 30 foot,
会被潮水断了去路 就相当危险了 there's a real danger of getting cut off.
在这里要小心站稳了 Just take it steady around here.
我们无法绕过去了 We can't get around that.
潮水把我们那边的路也断了 The tide's cut us off that way, as well.
我们困在这里 It's not actually a very
真是非常不妙的处境 clever position to find ourselves in here.
我们必须得爬出这里 We're gonna have to climb out.
这差不多是垂直的 That's all overhanging.
只有这一条出路了 潮涨得太快了 So is this stuff. This tide is coming up fast, guys.
非常快 Fast.
先退回去 看看那边裂缝如何 Just back up and see what that fissure's like.
事实上 从这里爬上去的更好一些 Actually, this may be possible, this bit.
大多的悬崖表面都有这样的线性裂纹 And most cliff faces will have some sort of linear weakness
仔细观察 你就能发现 if you look hard enough.
这应该是我们逃离山谷的最佳途径 This is probably our best way up out of this cove.
我得快点离开这块裸露的岩壁 And I want to move fast up this exposed rock face.
这里有一点好处 The good thing about this
就是风和破浪将松垮的岩石都弄掉了 is that the wind and the waves have smashed off all of the loose rock,
总的来说 非常有利于攀爬 so basically pretty good as a whole.
我运用"脚与后背同给力"的登山技巧 I'm using a climbing technique called foot and back
利用反作用力 使自己依附在峭壁上 that relies on opposing forces to keep you on the cliff face.
很好 Okay.
正正好好卡在这里 这个狭缝 Quite nicely wedged now. It's just chimneying
使我的后背顶着墙 手和脚这样支着 my back against this wall, my hands and legs here.
但没时间休息了 But there's no time to rest.
知道吗 这时候你脑子会想象 Do you know what? This is the sort of thing
风和日丽的夏天是什么样子 you do in your head
来进行自我安慰 it's nice summer's day somewhere,
但当你的手冻得没了知觉 but when your hands are so cold you can hardly feel them,
加上急风骤雨 一切都变得困难无比 the wind's blowing, the rain's coming in, everything becomes harder.
我爬得越高 And the higher I get,
越是不好攀爬了 the more difficult the climb becomes.
这里在海浪冲击线之上 The nightmare up here is that we're above the wave mark,
所以疏松的岩石越来越多 相当危险 and therefore, it's much more loose rock.
同样的 还有这些苔藓 All of this moss, as well,
海水使它们不能往低处生长 what the sea doesn't allow to grow lower down.
爬到这里是关键时刻了 比较重要 This is really the crux of the climb now. It's a bit.
我四肢都冻僵了 而且很累 My limbs are cold and getting tired.
但是胜利在望了 But there's an end in sight.
你瞧 现在出口那棵倒下的树 See, I'm not a million miles now
并不是遥不可及 from an exit point up by that fallen tree.
我就是要爬到那里 That's where I want to reach.
已经爬得好高的了 Got a long way down there.
再加把劲 Nice little push.
老天啊 Oh, God.
抓住树根 Grab this tree root.
就可以爬出去了 And then I'm out of here.
最后这几步要集中精神 Full concentration for the final few feet.
最后一刻不容失误 This is the last place to make a mistake.
而最终我成功了 But I've made it.
悬崖顶提供了非常有利的地势 And these cliff tops provide a great vantage point.
从这里可以鸟瞰海岸线 You get a good idea of the coastline from here.
看 有很多的水湾和小岛 See there's lots of little inlets and islands.
我要找一个 I want to get myself
让自己更容易能被发现的位置 to a position where it's gonna be easier to be spotted.
好了 我们继续往这边走 Okay, let's keep going this way.
此处背靠海平面 地形复杂 with plenty of tricky climbs and descents
有许多处考验技巧的起伏地貌 on difficult terrain back down to sea level.
那边有很多荒废的建筑 Loads of rusty, rusty buildings down there.
透过树林 看到了吗 Through the trees, see it?
我们下去 Get down there, come on.
似乎是个废弃工厂 Like an old factory of some sort.
估计是储存了什么 可能是燃料 Probably the storage tank for something, maybe fuel.
不管是什么 这规模挺大的 Whatever it was, a big operation here.
看看还能找到些什么 See what else I can find.
瞧瞧 一堆废旧的网 Man, look, masses of these old nets.
也许是捕鱼用的 And these probably had something to do with fish,
这里可能是个罐装厂 maybe an old canning station.
但这工作的地方 But what a wild, remote place
也太荒凉偏僻了 to work!
像这样的鱼肉罐头工厂 Fish canneries like this were
通常位于靠近大捕鱼场的偏僻之地 often located in remote areas near large fishing grounds.
在这儿处理鱼的内脏 烹制然后装罐 Here the catch was gutted, cooked, and tinned
最后装运出售 before being shipped for sale.
今非昔比啊 But not anymore.
这儿已经成了一片废墟 看看吧 Just been completely trashed. Look at it.
这儿的冬天可是冻死人 You know, the harsh winters here--
积雪足足有40英尺厚[12米] up to 40 foot of snow--
破坏力十分之大 is gonna cause a lot of damage.
在六十年代 阿拉斯加沿海发生过一次 But also in the '60s, they had one of the biggest earthquakes
有史以来最强的一次地震 of all times off the coast of Alaska.
大海啸在这些沙滩和水湾中横冲直撞 'Caused a massive tsunami, ripped through all of these sands and inlets,
破坏了大片当地社区 destroyed masses of local communities,
明显这儿也遭受了很大的破坏 and more than likely would have caused a lot of the damage here.
1964年 发生在受难日的大地震 The 1964 good friday earthquake
震级为里氏9.2级 measured 9.2 on the richter scale
大地震夺走了130条生命 and took over 130 lives.
幸亏这儿极为偏远 The death toll would have been much higher
否则造成的伤亡更大 but for the extreme remoteness of the location.
你们看看海岸线四周的地形 You see all the terrain along the coastline there.
路很难走啊 It's tough-going.
但我想利用这周边所有 But I reckon with all of these sort of resources
这类废弃物 around here,
说不定能做个筏 better off making some sort of raft
然后把它推下水 and then getting out onto the water itself.
好了 Okay.
这样子就可以走得更远 You should be able to cover more distance
而且在海面上更可能被人发现 and have a better chance of being spotted on the sea.
但要离开这里 就需要一个坚固的筏 But out there, you'll need a sturdy raft.
旧床板 Old beds.
这东西 用来做筏挺好的 Actually, that'll be quite good to lie on for a raft.
所有这种旧油桶 看看 All sorts of these old barrels. Look.
这些东西的浮力很大 And these are so buoyant, these things.
你得检查检查 保证所有塞子都塞住了 You want to check they've got both the... both the bungs in
没有任何漏水孔 and also that they've not got any holes.
不然就惨了 瞧这玩意儿够坚固的 Otherwise, look like that fella.
一个密封的油桶很容易就能承载我的重量 An airtight oil drum will easily support my weight.
有这几个 初步的坚固筏就成形了 And with a few, I have the beginnings of a substantial raft.
这些工作都是为了 It's all this work making sure you build a raft
保证这筏离入水的地方够近 close enough to where you're gonna launch it.
最不想看到的一件事 The last thing you want to do
就是造好这个金属筏之后 is build a thing, especially when it's out of metal,
却没有办法把它弄到岸边 and then not be able to drag it down there.
正好在涨潮 现在时机正合适 See the tide's coming in here, so it's probably about right.
我得快点把筏做好 I want to get this raft built quickly
等着开始退潮时我就下水 so I'm ready to launch when the tide turns.
我要做的就是 What I want to do is use the barrels
利用这些桶的浮力 to give me all the buoyancy
让这个床板离开水面 so that keep this up out of the water.
用些木材横穿过这里 Couple of bits of wood across here.
把这些都系牢 And lash that all down.
为了系牢 我打的是雪橇结 And to tie off, I'm using a sledge knot.
你在书上是找不到该怎么打雪橇结的 And you won't find how to tie a sledge knot in any book or manual,
但是用狗拉雪橇时 but it's used by dogsledders
打这种结十分管用 as a really efficient self-tightening knot
这结是不会散的 that'll never come undone.
先绕个短绳套 Take a bite around the rope.
然后接着绕几圈 Then you go around itself
一圈 两圈 三圈 once, twice, three times.
再把线头穿过最后两个绳圈 Let's go through the last two loops.
缠过第一个绳圈 再从这个洞拉出来 Over the first, and back down the hole,
然后再拉紧就行了 and then tighten it up.
潮水涨的很快 但还有很多工作没完成 The tide's coming in fast, but there's still work to do.
得加快速度了 Need to get a wiggle on with this.
我们还要用这些 We'll just use these,
分别放于两侧 加固纵向结构 one each side, to act as the longitudinal strength to this,
筏就不会左右摇晃了 and that'll stop it wobbling.
最后放一块波形铁皮 And finally this length of corrugated iron.
把这个放在后面 Put this across the back,
这就有了坐的地方 something to sit on.
我在军队服役时有个中士说过 We used to have a sergeant in the army who used to say:
弄舒服点总是没错的 No prizes being uncomfortable.
如果手上有这东西 一定要善加利用 If you got it, you might as well use it.
把这段折断 Just break this end off,
系起来做个划桨 attach it to make a bit of a paddle.
人们都以为野外生存的要领在于 People often think that survival's about
会打结 看对书 knowing the right knots or reading the right books,
但我对于野外生存的看法是 but actually, my view of survival is-- good survival--
要有永不放弃的决心 is about a determination never to give up
然后要有随机应变的能力 and then an ability to improvise,
跳出固有思维模式 to think outside the box
想好如何安然脱身 about how you're gonna get out of somewhere in one piece.
时间和潮汐都不等人 我得加快行动 Time and tide wait for no man. I need to move fast.
潮汐涨上来 这能浮起来了 Tide's almost completely lifting this off now.
差不多可以完工了 So it's a good time to be finishing.
已经准备妥当 But it's pretty well ready.
最后再检查一下绳结 Quick final check of these knots.
关于筏 I've got a very simple principle
我的原则很简单 when it comes to rafts--
无论你绑的多紧 however much lashing you think you need,
都要加倍绑牢 虽然看似风平浪静 double it. 'Cause it might be nice and calm in here,
但以我的经验来看 but if I've learned anything,
大海是瞬息万变的 it's that the sea state can change very fast.
好了 把它推出去吧 Okay, let's get this thing out.
真要命 好冷啊 Squeeze my spuds, this is cold.
不错 还挺稳的 Okay, it's pretty stable.
你上来吧 很好 Let's get you on. Good.
好了 Okay.
该出发了 Time to get going.
我在涨潮时下水 I've launched at the height of the tide,
希望等着退潮的时候 and what I'm hoping is that as the tide turns,
能带我顺利出海 it'll take me out
从而靠近普通船只行驶的航线 towards the shipping lanes more.
由于内陆地形险峻 With difficult inland terrain,
阿拉斯加交通多通过水路 much of alaska traffic moves by water,
找到船的几率很高 so there's a chance of finding a boat.
但我有别的发现 But I spotted something else.
在那个岛后面 Just behind the island there,
有鲸鱼 a whale.
看见了吗 See?
看它会不会游过来 看到了吗 See if he'll come around this side. Can you see him?
太赞了 Absolutely amazing!
是座头鲸 It's a humpback.
能够如此近距离观察它 真是太美妙了 Just extraordinary to see this close.
这些家伙可以可达50英尺长[15米] These guys can grow up to 50 foot long,
35吨重 35 tons of weight.
它正在水中灵巧地穿梭着 Just effortlessly moving through the waters.
座头鲸就在水面下方游弋 Humpbacks cruise just below the water surface,
每几分钟就会浮上来一次 coming up every few minutes.
但它们也经常跃出水面 But they often breach,
整个身体都跃出水面 launching their bodies out of the water
再以背部入水 before splashing down on their backs.
希望它别从咱们的小木筏下冒上来 Let's hope he doesn't try and surface under this.
我已经离岸了 I've left the coast behind,
现在正驶向开放水域 and now I'm heading out into open water.
保持在正确的航道上漂游成了很大的难题 But staying on course is becoming a major challenge.
只靠一只桨来控制方向是很困难的 Well, it's difficult with just one paddle,
很难控制浮筏前进的方向 and this raft is actually controlling your direction and where you go.
我只能任凭风浪 Kind of pretty at the mercy of the wind
以及潮汐摆布 and the waves and the tide.
我正漂流至更寒冷的水域 I'm drifting into colder waters.
更糟的是 自制筏突然出了问题 To make matters worse, there's a problem with the raft.
那个桶看起来正在下沉 You see that barrel's looking quite low in the water.
而且越沉越深了 Now, just steadily be getting lower and lower.
肯定进水了 There wasn't a hole in it.
我敢肯定 I'm pretty sure.
这里很明显 It's noticeably
冷多了 colder here.
水流正把我引往那些多冰水域 The current is taking me towards a lot of this ice,
就像这种 these sort of things,
这可不好 我可不想被困在冰中间 which isn't ideal. I don't want to get messed up in that.
但那些并不是海水结成的冰 But, you know, it's not sea ice.
而是夏天时从海洋性冰川滑落下来的 Summertime, that's come from maritime glacier.
现在我要做的便是 Now all I want to be heading on is
尽量呆在无冰的水域 to stick out in the open, open sea.
其他船只不可能冒险来这里 Other vessels are unlikely to brave these waters,
在这里很有可能被冰川撞破 where they risk being hulled by an iceberg.
在无冰海面被发现的几率会高很多 There's a better chance of being spotted out in open water.
但是我们的情况越来越窘迫了 But I'm fighting a losing battle.
水里的浮冰越来越多 There's more and more ice in the water now.
我应该是正驶向这些冰的来源 I must be getting close to its source.
看这片海的那头 看到那些冰川了吗 Ahead of the field, see that glacier?
每年的这个时候 大块的冰 This time of year, there's big chunks of ice
会从那里的冰川上滑落 just carving off that.
我可不想又漂回去了 I don't like being funneled backwards towards one of them.
海洋性冰川很危险 Maritime glaciers are dangerous,
从冰川上断落的冰块能激起大浪 with carving icebergs that could cause huge waves.
没人想在这里停留 You don't want to hang around here.
最佳的选择是 驶入正常航道 The best option -- to get out to the shipping lanes
然后找寻船只 and find a vessel.
那里有条船正像右边驶去 There's a boat through the ice to the right.
看见船桅的顶端了 See the top of the mast.
往右边那块冰看 Look at the ice to the right.
那边一英里外[1.6公里]有条渔船 There's a fishing trawler about a mile away.
太远了 看不到我们 Too far to see us.
我们得想办法到那块浮冰那儿去 We need to make our way to that ice flow,
大的那块 然后试着生一团信号火 bigger one. Try and make a bit of a signal fire there.
这样就能被发现了 And get spotted like that.
我的计划是 迅速到浮冰上 My plan -- get to the iceberg quickly
然后从那里发信号 and signal from there.
这大概是附近最大的浮冰了 It's about the biggest one around here.
准备好跳了吗 Okay, you ready to jump for this?
我准备跳到浮冰上 I'm gonna jump onto the berg
它可千万别塌了 and hope that the ice doesn't give way.
但就在我纵身一跃的时候 But as I leap off,
筏失去了平衡 the raft is unbalanced,
我的队友掉进了冰冷的海里 and my crew plunge into the icy waters.
抓住你了 好了 I got you, I got you. That's it.
要想让他发现我们 就得动作快点 We need to work fast if he's gonna spot us.
在这种情况下 In situations like this,
船在几分钟内便可能不见踪影 the boat could be out of range in minutes.
所以必须快速制造信号火 So any signal fire needs to be a quick build.
赶快把火生起来 Build this baby up.
我的急救助燃材料很快就能燃烧起来 My emergency fire-making materials are quick to ignite,
但冒出的烟雾还不够浓烈 but there's not nearly enough smoke for my signal fire.
虽然冒出了些烟 It's giving off some smoke,
但这些烟是白色的 but it's only white smokes.
在这些皑皑浮冰之间 是不会被看见的 It's never gonna show against all this ice.
现在我们要做的是 What we need to now do
利用我的鞋底胶 is use just some rubber off the bottom of my boot.
橡胶燃烧时能产生很浓的黑烟 Burning rubber produces thick, black smoke
与白色的冰反差很大 会相当显眼 which will show up clearly against the white of the ice.
看看它们瞧得见这个不 See if they see this.
依靠浓烟和我的亮红色外套 With the black smoke and my bright-red jacket,
这是我被发现的最佳机会了 I've given myself the best chance of being seen.
举起你的手 呈"Y"型 Hold your arms up in this big "Y" Shape.
这是国际通用的遇险信号 It's the international distress sign
代表"我需要帮助" for "Yes. I need help."
救命 救命啊 Hey! Help!
渔船减速了 The trawler has slowed
并且调转了方向 and is altering course.
对于幸存者来说 看到营救船转向他们 There could be no better sight in the world for the survivor
是最激动人心的景象 than seeing their rescue ship turn towards them.
船开过来救我了 The boat is coming to get me.
它不会在这片充满浮冰的海域逗留太久 He won't want to hang around in these icy waters,
因此我必须一次成功 so this is gonna be a one-shot deal.
伙计 船朝着我们来了 Man, that is coming fast
它开得又快又直 and straight towards us.
我得换个好位置 We need to move to make this.
船与这块浮冰擦身而过 The boat is gonna come alongside the iceberg,
这时我需要跳上去 and I'm gonna make a leap for it.
我必须做好准备再起跳 I've got to be 100% confident of making this jump.
我可不想最后被挤扁在 I do not want to end up crushed
船和冰的中间 between this and the ice.
但是它开得太快 距离也太近了 But she's coming in too hot and too close.
在最后一刻 它撞进了浮冰 And at the last moment, it crashes into the ice.
千钧一发 我成功了 A close shave, but I've made it.
刚刚好 Just!
终于可以回家了 And I'm heading home.